Galco’s in Atlantic Monthly Magazine, Aug. 20, 2012

 

(Photo Copyright, Atlantic Monthly Magazine, 2012)

Tastes Like Home

As regional sodas expand, could they lose what makes them special?

By Henry Garbar

Foxon Park soda has been a fixture at New Haven pizzerias since the Great Depression, when Matteo Naclerio started sweetening and carbonating the bottled water at his East Haven factory. Locally bottled, locally bought, it endured the end of Prohibition, the astonishing rise of globalized soda, and the crisis of American manufacturing.

Then, about five years ago, the company began to expand. Now, as it celebrates its 90th birthday, Foxon Park soda is available not just around New England, but in Colorado, Florida, California, Maryland, and Nevada; not just at craft shops and trendy restaurants but at supermarkets and chain stores.

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